Lower Manhattan

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Each part of town has several neighborhoods. Our residential-real-estate survey condenses its developmental highlights through Manhattan’s boom-and-bust economic cycles.

In no way is its intention a complete history: rather, the survey reflects the overriding characteristics that remain (through its rise, fall, and then {often} subsequent gentrification).

Furthermore, the seven additional elements–our highlights, photographs, maps, and suchlike–aim to create a mosaic of the lifestyle and housing types throughout Manhattan.

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Municipal Building

                              Municipal Building


Beginning at Canal Street, its northernmost major thoroughfare, ending at the Battery, on New York Harbor, the island’s southernmost tip, and extending from the Hudson to East Rivers, this was Manhattan’s earliest settlement site. It evolved as a worldwide port and became the municipal seat—simultaneously though briefly the nation’s capital— the city’s central business district, which continues as a vibrant financial hub, always (well, almost) defined by its main artery, Broadway.

Although geographic preferences exist, Lower Manhattan neighborhoods meld into one another as the island continually narrows between its riverbanks, and with north-to-south less than two miles walking distances are short. The area, in fact, tapers without enough width for an east-and-west bus route. Plus, replacing the IRT overhead El lines, running north-and-south along Pearl and Greenwich Streets, virtually every present underground line wends its way to or through Lower Manhattan; and they interconnect. Scattered below the skyscrapers, the residential neighborhood portions, with a distinctive appeal, are:

  • Northeast, Chinatown
  • Central, Civic Center
  • Easterly, Waterfront
  • South, Financial District
  • Southwest, Battery Park City
  • Westerly, TriBeCa

Broadway, broad only by comparison to its contiguous constricted streets, has become the world-famous skyscraper Canyon of Heroes, surprisingly so considering a modest beginning. From a Native people walking path and humble Dutch country lane, dubbed BredeStraat, “wide street,” Broad Way grew as much by accident as design. Initially, New Amsterdam (to the Lenape, Kapsee, “sharp and rocky place”) comprised six east-and-west dirt lanes, which were Dock, Hill, Herr, Duke, Beaver, Church and The Single. As well as two wider north-and-south lanes, Broad Way, initiating at the fort, and Broad Lane, originating from the easterly harbor, both lead to the basic, plank stockade—the Wall. As the settlement increased considerably, the dismantled fences became Wall Street, next came Queen, then South and Crowne Streets, until the northward expansion extreme, Maiden Lane.

It was only natural to traverse the established land routes to and from New Amsterdam and other points on the island. The westerly course along the “North River” (Shatemuc, Algonquian speaking), lead through Hampstead to Greenwich hamlet, and was preferred by the burghers over Broad Way, the extreme lower reach of Heere Waege Weg, “Great Wagon Way”: It ended abruptly at an acute, rocky hill which protruded just beyond the Battery and Fort Amsterdam. The major Wiechquaesgeck trail (a well-worn, mid-island, trade route for the surrounding Munsee-dialect tribesmen) to Konaande Kongh—a Lenape hilltop village—negotiated dense woods, skirted swamplands and undulating rocky outcrops. The alternative, following the river trials beyond the farm hamlet to the outposts and districts, presented traversing swamplands and climbing soaring cliffs, along crisscrossing interconnecting subordinate paths: the river provided the commonsensical transport for trade and otherwise.

The Dutch widened the Niew Amsterdam southern reaches below “Gentlemen’s Street,” Heere Straat, Bowling Green, which created a Broad Way as a proper road where it led straight into Fort Amsterdam. The hill was leveled 150 years later, chiefly as an easy northward extension beyond the city via Great George and Bloomingdale Road to the Albany Post Road. The first Broad Way building lots were laid out as the British took over the colony, it had been built-up from the Battery to the Wall with 21 buildings—by no means handsome wooden houses; there remained many more vacant lots and gardens. At that time, north to Maiden Lane opened as well, and a Broad Way-frontage boom added 65 (as humble) dwellings.

Farther along northward progress was presented with the problematic Damen family homestead, purchased by Augustyn Hermans and further complicated when Jonas Bartelzen bought its orchard lands. Additionally, across the way, the Ryerse Farm, with 308 feet on Broad Way, ran down to the North River edge on parallel lines. George Ryerson’s descendants steadfastly held on to their block fronts, and with the adjacent church-owned burying grounds’ support, the heir’s successfully kept the properties intact for 60 years. Derision among the allies, finally, allowed the city to legally open their Broad Way footage. With similar minor pushes northward occurring, each of which was expected to be the last by conservative citizens.

Meanwhile, pavement had been laid from Bowling Green to Trinity Church, at Wall Street. Five years later, it was continued as upper Broad Way from Maiden Lane to the “commons” (Vlack or Flat, a pasture sometimes called “fields”), present-day New York City Hall Park, considered the city’s extreme northern edge. Pavement was not put down immediately though; three years later, the sidewalks between Murray and Vesey Streets were laid and paved. Fifty years, following a 1760 survey naming this roadway portion Great George, was required for Broad Way to be built-up from Vesey to Duane Streets. Further arrangements were made to open the route for more than a mile, by traversing the Harrison property end to end. Another protracted wait intervened before a settlement was reached, however. It held up the northern continuation of Broad Way throughout the Revolutionary War British occupation.

At Vesey Street, during the interim, the Park Row spur, running along the Common’s east boundary, and moving northeast to Chatham Square—the central horse market—was Bowery Lane, which carried on north as the Boston highroad. This significant link and access reinforced Broad Way’s potential as an important thoroughfare.

Finally, after 137 years of on-and-off-again progress, the roadway approached Canal Street. Here, grading as well as crossing the Collect Pond (subsequently Foley Square) was needed. Once paved in cobble stones, with a stone arched bridge, allowed Manhattan’s premier near-north retail shopping district to blossom along Broadway, by name.

As a Neighborhood
Government House on lower Broadway, denied of its original Federal capital purpose and with the War of 1812 fire, any future usefulness was destroyed too. It disappeared completely to be succeeded by a row of private residences which, for gorgeousness and luxury, were without a rival in the city. In the meantime, with these activities in the environs, the Broadway frontage came into its own for fashionable residences again. (Lower Broadway near to the colonial Governor’s home had been a pre-War of Independence important residential quarter.) Its lots averaged about fifty feet in width, and extended back to the Hudson River, which was nearer than today.

This small enclave became known as Bowling Green, and along with the adjoining Streets, it was conceded to be the ultimate, socially exclusive place in which to reside. Yet, for several years after their erection, the homes were without baths; in fact, there was no running water, the communal pump on the corner supplied their needs. Light was by candle or wicks sticking in a dish of whale oil, and wood burning stoves provided heat. Even without these indispensable, the houses were elaborate, of the finest construction and furnishings, and occupied by the city’s shipping and merchant-elite clutch, among them the Beeckman, Schermerhorn, Murray, and Peck families, and Stephen Whitney, now immensely wealthy after cornering the post-war cotton market.

A stylish early 18th-century residential district built-up alongside Pearl Street, and for one century Hanover Square, at Stone Street, was the great merchant counting-house epicenter. (The West India Merchants House, on the square, led to the “company stores” on the colony’s only paved street.) Even established tradesmen had their stores adjoining, or in, their dwellings. Some vast landowners, however, already retained countryseats and manor houses a few miles away from the city, and they drove in to do their business. The southernmost mansion, at Pearl and Broad Streets, the only still-standing, pre-Revolutionary War home, was the converted former Etienne deLancey family town residence, Fraunces Tavern. On Pearl Street and Maiden Lane was the city mayor’s residence, built in 1695, for Abraham dePeyster, an Amsterdam-born mercantile scion. Three stories high, with a balcony over its double door, the home was Washington’s headquarters for a short while, Governor Clinton lived here, too. Next door, Nicholas and Anne (nee van Cortlandt) Bayard built a mansion on several lots, with several out houses along Wall Street, at the East River’s edge. Along Pearl Street, at the Queen and Cedar Streets intersection, owned by Mr. William Walton, and erected in 1752, this was the most opulent, nouveau riche of all, with fluted, classical column front door frame, topped by a broken pediment, and embellished by the Walton “coat of arms;” the extensive gardens (ended at a summer bath- and boathouse) down by the water.

Following the 1812 war, cross town at Battery Park and Broadway, the corner was built as a substantial home for Captain Kennedy, the naval commander and collector of the port, replaced several small buildings owned by the era’s quintessential merchant-prince, Abraham dePeyster, (son of the city mayor). The captain’s lead was followed by the city’s first families; and, a number of Knickerbocker merchants built their mansions nearby: the Rhinelander’s, on the Williams Street corner, Robert Goelet’s on State Street, and his brother, Peter’s, at No. 32 Broadway; the shady stretch reaching up from the Battery to Trinity Church (then the Mall, later old Row), became the afternoon walk—even as families moved northward as far uptown as the Bleecker and Bond Streets fashion center. This Broadway sliver retained its aristocratic character for the next 20 years.

The final residential leap along Broadway, north of the church and cemetery barrier, was just prior to upcoming, consequential events for Lower Manhattan: recurring epidemics and fires decimating the middle-class residential streets, the roadway opening to Canal Street’s north, which caused the easterly Pearl Street aristocratic enclave demise. Between Vesey and Barclay Streets leading citizens built imposing houses, and the pioneering residents were infamous, such as Aaron Burr, who, when Vice President of the United States, lived at No. 221, off the Vesey Street corner, in a house seized by the State of New York. And the well-regarded, for instance, nearby (No. 233) Mayor Edward Livingston resided in a mansion owned and previously occupied by John Jacob Astor (J.J., to those close) for some years with his wife and brood.

At the time, a charmed merchant prince, Alexander Stewart, lived in the New York City Hall Park area, to be close by his elegant, Marble Palace on Broadway and Reade Street. Stewart, left an orphan at eight years old, arrived in Manhattan 12 years later, and soon accident had him set up as a shopkeeper—with the store’s rent on his hands. From an inferior alleyway off Broadway, with the 12-feet wide, street-facing, gable-end divided into two stores, Stewart went to work. In short order his dry goods store was a success: Stewart did not attract the nearby fashionable elite, his stock and trade was customers with more mundane tastes. In time his merchandising knowhow was legendary. Stewart was to be the city’s largest, most established (promoted by lavish daily newspaper advertisements), and paramount Broadway department store

The death knell tolled for Lower Manhattan as a residential neighborhood, and its rise to an exclusively commercial hub was at hand, with the early 19th-century epidemics, which naturally took their toll as the city’s well fled to seek out healthier country air beyond the still marshes, fetid rivers, and contaminated wharf districts—those residents never returned in substantial numbers. Then, with the 1835 Great Fire line at Trinity Church, every residential street north, including round the Commons fell to commercial enterprise, too. There was no turning back after the 1837 panic and great lingering slump, when by razing his Broadway mansion as well as assembling the adjoining Broadway frontage sites, Astor built the famous Park Hotel, later Astor House, which was among the first United States luxury hotels—with gaslight, and a bath and toilette on each floor.

Of course, this was not the case for the swath northeast and beyond, the Lenape Werpoes village to its oyster shell repository along Pearl Street at the East River. This was to become Five Points, the notorious, absolute worst slum district, built upon a poorly executed landfill in an attempt to drain the insect-ridden and toxic Collect Pond, which would overrun the Rutgers commercial properties and stylish enclave at the East River.

Northeast Sector

Traditional Chinatown runs from Centre Street east to The Bowery, and south between East Canal and Chambers Streets, including Foley Square Civic Center, and to the southeast at Chatham Square. Chinatown’s core, with its narrow streets—many lined with restaurants—remains much as it has for better than 100 years. There, there is a dense concentration of tenement apartment houses; many retain their original façade, all but a few pre-Tenement Act buildings remain with meager public stairwells and hallways. For the most part, these small apartment houses have been reconfigured from a railroad-style layout (accessing one room through another), into two- or one-and-a-half room units. A good deal of the units still has an old-fashion water closet, (with an overhead pull-chain flush), a bathtub (on claw-shaped feet) in the kitchen, and a kitchen sink—used for all purposes.

There has been unprecedented growth creating greater Chinatown from Five Points, which was the original Chinatown, and defined as East Canal Street to the Foley Civic Center, southeast to Chatham Square along East Broadway, and stretching from Centre Street to The Bowery. It has grown to roughly two square miles, including Centre Street to the East River, with Kenmore to the north and Delancey Street at the northeast, engulfing the area east of Worth Street and radiating out between the Williamsburg and Brooklyn Bridges. What’s more, the real growth is up: the razed five-story buildings were replaced by red-brick, 12-plus-story, tower series.

It came about like this: Once the transcontinental railroad was complete, in 1870, Chinese workers migrated to large cities, where the job opportunities were likely. So much so, by 1880 the Five Point slum district—beforehand mostly Irish-Americans—was home to an ever-growing community. (Interestingly, in the late 1870s, a few illegally smuggled Chinese workers found their way to a New Jersey laundry factory, soon after they moved to Manhattan; and this handful sparked the hand laundry explosion.)

The initial Chinese migration to Manhattan was contained at East Canal Street by the established Italian-American community, Little Italy, at the northwest. Nevertheless, once the Chinese community overflowed Five Points the expansion followed along East Broadway, from The Bowery southeast to Grand Street, eventually displacing the established Jewish community, who were moving across the Williamsburg Bridge, and then Greater Chinatown included almost the entire Lower East Side.

One-hundred years later, the Chinese immigration quota was raised in 1968, and mainland Chinese flooded in: Chinatown’s population exploded, obliterating any previous borders. Chinatown had crossed into Little Italy, often by buying buildings—with cash—turning tenements into garment factories or mini-office buildings, but was then contained at Kenmare Street, by NoLita.

Civic Center

The streets between Worth and Barclay and from Church to Park Row include Federal Plaza, Foley Square and New York City Hall Park, of course, the residential magnate is the centerpiece 1812 French Renaissance Revival City Hall, designed by Joseph Francois Mangin and John McComb Jr., and was begun in 1802. The park, initially a Common set aside by Mayor Abraham de Peyser, is an irregular triangle, with the northern border encompassing Chambers Street’s south block front; its western boundary is Broadway; the eastern edge runs along Park Row and Centre Street, primarily as the Brooklyn Bridge ingress and egress ramps. The park is truly the Lower Manhattan neighborhoods epicenter: North of Chambers Street’s Surrogate Courthouse and Municipal Building is Foley Square with the Federal Plaza’s court buildings; north-northeast, Chinatown; due east begins the Pearl Street and South Street Seaport waterfront area; beyond the southern tip, the Financial District, and, to its the west is TriBeCa.

Even given New York City Hall Park’s perimeters offering limited building sites, recently, numerous towering apartment houses have sprung up on the adjacent southeast and southwest, narrow Barclay and Nassau Streets. Moreover, there was a crucial second ingredient: with the World Trade Center opening, in 1973, and the year-long occupancy complete, throughout the New York City Hall Park area a disturbing inventory of underutilized office spaces became available (with few takers). Thus, potential living space supply which could be inexpensively converted to residential usage provided, Manhattan’s real-estate developers took over, and they propelled its residential appeal. Therefore, these bustling commercial streets and avenues surrounding the park are now a hearty mix of residential-usage buildings within the city’s civic district. Furthermore, on Broadway, Church Street, and West Broadway the loft and office buildings are primarily residential usage too, and the corridor continues north, above Chambers to Canal Streets.


Between the South Street Seaport along Pearl Street to Hanover Square what you see is what you get, yet the East River shoreline is not what it once was. Kapsee, with the Canarsie-speaking seasonal village Werpoes, were rocky, three-toed-sloth shaped promontories, divided by a creek, at the Fresh Water Pond, and a canal along Broad Street, each running southeast to the harbor. Beginning with governor-general Stuyvesant, the middle canal was filled, the British continually encouraged merchants to fill in their slips—and they did thereby owning the newly created land. Now four blocks inland, Pearl Street bordered Manhattan’s coastline. The easternmost avenues, which include Water, Front and South Streets, were captured during the Federal-era.

Following the demolished IRT Second Avenue El spur, leaving Chatham Square and cutting southeast, then moving south along Pearl Street, with three stops, near Frankfort Street, at Fulton Street, again at Hanover Square, and then arriving to South Ferry, outlines the neighborhood. This was the city’s early 19th century fashionable retailing and elegant residential district. With the steel structures down the area remained undeveloped for 20 years. The initial stirrings of the residential revival began with the South Street Seaport Museum’s founding in 1967, which was situated on Fulton Street’s south side, across from the now-defunct Fulton Fish Market, within the Schermerhorn Row counting houses or offices. In 1974, the State of New York purchased the 1811 row, which had been added to the National Register of Historical Places in 1971. The completed restoration project is the largest early 19th-century commercial building concentration in the city.

The dwelling types available are quite varied, more so than might be assumed, and they range from converted 1920s office buildings to the occasional 120-year-old, three-story commercial buildings, and on the crooked lanes are a handful of mid-19th century two- and three-story structures as well as a sprinkling of apartment house towers. Each residential building is obviously nestled among the skyscrapers as well as an important national monument. The residential enclaves that evolved East of Williams Street are:

  • Below Park Row to the East River, includes significant limestone-façade, office-to-residential-usage buildings on the endlessly crisscrossing streets, such as Nassau, Ann, John, and Gold Streets to Maiden Lane.
  • To the Brooklyn Bridge’s south, the 1700s landfill east of Water Street, South Street Seaport area, with Front and South Streets (the north to south Avenues), and along (the east to west cobblestone lanes), with such esteemed family names as Beekman, Fulton, and John Streets.
  • Along the length of Water and Pearl Streets, taking in Maiden Lane, Pine and Fletcher Streets, to Hanover Square convergence with South Williams and Stone Street. It cannot be denied, therefore, that the unique character is enriched by the history surrounding Stone Street and Fraunces Tavern, simultaneously the Revolutionary War loyalist and patriot espionage headquarters.

Financial District

The Financial District encompasses the entire portion south of New York City Hall to Battery Park, at New York Harbor, spanning west of Broad Street inclusive of Broadway, Trinity Place and Church Street, and then south of Liberty Street to the west are (a truncated) Greenwich and Washington Streets to West Street. Sadly, the Colonial-era dwellings abutting the city’s commercial hub were destroyed by a series of disastrous fires beginning with the Revolutionary War British occupation. The few remaining residential structures (by then converted to commercial usage) were lost to the Great Fire of 1835, if not then, then it went up in smoke during the 1845 fire.

There are no new apartment houses, however, the residential buildings there were recaptured by urban trailblazing developers, and soon enough, majestic office buildings by the score were converted into multiple-family dwellings. With new residents, along with the teeming commercial building office workers, fancy food stores, world-renowned retailers, restaurants—even boutique hotels—are tucked here and there nearby lower Broadway’s Colonial-era churches and classic-style, Federal-era government buildings, such as:

  • St. Paul’s Chapel, an example of the Georgian architectural style popular in the British colonies, enclosed by a 1760s iron fence;
  • Wall Street’s 1766, Trinity Church, with its cemetery, dubbed the Country Chapel;
  • Federal Hall, the original U.S. Custom House, at the intersection of Broad and Wall Streets, with an impressive marble-colonnaded entry and dome rotunda.

Battery Park City

The southwestern-most point, west of West Street, between Chambers Street, to the north, and Battery Park, is Battery Park City. Built entirely onto the Hudson River, mostly of World Trade Center excavated rumble and rock landfill, it is Manhattan’s sole urban-planned, mixed-usage, upper-middle-class residential community. The entire 92-acres are owned and operated by the Battery Park City Authority, with ground lease development rights. Although the complex began with a 1968 State Legislated mandate, it is not entirely built out yet.

Battery Park City consists of a commercial office tower section, a retail mall along the Hudson River’s edge, an array of community buildings, such as schools, health and religious facilities, shopping areas, and several high- and low-rise residential areas—Rector and Battery Place as well as Gateway Plaza—scattered among the Parks Department landscaped grounds. Additionally, there is private harbor and public waterfront esplanade, the Museum of Jewish Heritage and Stuyvesant High School. A series of high-rise apartment buildings is scheduled to open in the northern portion.


In the northwest, TriBeCa extends west from West Broadway to the Hudson River, and runs from Vesey (not to be confused as Vestry) to West Canal Streets. In colonial times, first, these were the “Company Acres,” the Queen’s or (depending) King’s Farm, and later the West Ward. Trinity Church controlled the acreage as parish districts, granted by Queen Ann with its tracts leased out to be farmed—carting fresh produce from Hempstead, the immediate near-north hamlet supplying nearby city markets. By the early 1700s, this hamlet was a full-fledged suburban neighborhood. Shortly, it seemingly evaporated within the city’s boundaries.

The city required a better organized food distribution system, and so, late in the 18th century, Bear Market was established on land donated by Trinity Church. It, too, was replaced, nearer to the Hudson shoreline, by the 1813 Washington Market. As the harbor activity consistently grew over 200-hundred years (initially, by dint of the Erie Canal), the small-scale warehouses were insufficient: they were replaced by a larger ferry terminal and wharf-side buildings devoted to international commodity exchanges, for import-and-export cargoes passing through the New York Harbor’s shipping lanes.

And it came to be that one family, the Rhinelanders—in like fashion to the Stuyvesant, Bayard and De Lancey clan control of Downtown East’s vast tracts, where the very rich built mansions and the very poor lived—dominated the western Lower Manhattan commercial tracts. William and Frederick Rhinelander kept a bakery shop on Williams Street before the Revolutionary War, and had picked up a sugar factory (by foreclosing on its Spruce and Rose Streets lot): always war’s chief financial beneficiary. Prospering, and with $100,000 or so, the brothers went into the shipping and commission business, and they began accumulating Lower Manhattan land. Mrs. William Rhinelander descended from Anthony Rutgers, the colonial brewer-meister, obtained a 70-acre grant on Fresh Water Pond, and she held it as it developed into Five Points.

Adding to this valuable inheritance, the Rhinelander brothers took a 99 year lease from the Trinity Corporation and King’s (Columbia) College, by which they possessed a district extending along Broadway and west to the shoreline, stretching from Barclay to Beach Streets—ostensibly, southern TriBeCa. To the immediate north, meanwhile, the Trinity Church-held and leased tract-farm parcels were combined in 1800, when St. John’s Chapel was built on Varick Street. The alternate church sides were turned into St. John’s Park, a private common (for residents with a key to open the gate), which spurred residential development and attracted high-end residents, such as Alexander Hamilton and General Schuyler. Additionally, St. John’s Park hosted church events, such as flooding in winter, as a large public ice skating rink.

By the mid-19th century, west Lower Manhattan (south-to-north) was a sprawling port, with imposing warehouses adjacent to the wharves, and with loft-style buildings lining the western avenues. In addition to the Ninth Avenue IRT elevated railroad, construction of St. John’s Freight Terminal, on the former park site, in 1867-68, furthered the evolution of the area into transportation district. sold to the N. Y. and Hudson River R. R. Co., for a freight station in 1865.

Westernmost Canal Street, thereafter, remained the important industrial east-to-west ingress and egress between Manhattan and New Jersey, the shortest distance to mainland United States. The New York Central and Pennsylvania Rail Road’s needs only complicated the already overburden situation, so the wrangling for a tunnel under the Hudson River began in 1906. Excavation started in 1920, and the tunnel was completed in 1927. Moreover 85-odd years afterward, the continuous traffic flow remains omnipresent. In the early 20th century, the final oncoming industrial wave brought the printing industry in to dominate the existing industrial spaces, but they were ordained to be converted within 60 years as the TriBeCa signature residential loft buildings.

Throughout the 1970s, beginning in the northwest quadrant in TriBeCa (triangle below Canal), where Sixth Avenue (of the Americas) and West Broadway cross Lispenard and Walker Streets, Lower Manhattan witnessed a spectacular residential renaissance. Initially, the row houses just off the north to south avenues were retrofitted. Rapidly, every possible light-industry building was recaptured by urban trailblazers, and soon enough, the westerly TriBeCa cobblestone streets and north-and-south avenues small-scale, late 19th-century residential loft buildings were converted dwellings as well. In addition, the western edge avenues are dotted with modest-scale, new-construction condominium apartment houses.

Knowing full and well the fate of St. John’s Park residential district, and having witness the surrounding mass demolishment, the residents—long term and recent—quickly coalesced around preservation for the central commercial district built up under the Rhinelander leases. Therefore, by these early-on efforts, the neighborhood streets and avenues remain ostensibly intact. Moreover, the narrow alleys and lanes remain, and they are, as follows:

    • Washington Street, off Harrison Street, at Greenwich Street’s west
    • Collister to Greenwich’s east, and south of Laight Street
    • Staple Street, a tiny lane running between Duane and Harrison Streets, at Hudson Street’s west
    • St. Johns Lane, between West Canal and Beach Streets, to west of Sixth Avenue (of the Americas)
    • York Street, but a few feet long, between St. John’s Lane and Sixth Avenue (of the Americas), south of West Canal




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